17th July – At sea
After three consecutive city visits it’s
good to get a sea day and rest up, doing the tourist thing is quite exhausting.
Once again the ships fog horn has been
sounding every minute and we are travelling on the edge of an increasing low
pressure
Wild seas and strong cold winds whipping
spray off the waves and looking like an undulating snow field, the old girl is
rolling something dramatic. (so is the ship).
Great news as I was passing through the
Atrium area where the service desk is located I asked about my phone mainly to
get details for insurance claiming. The girl at the desk couldn’t find the reference
paperwork so went and checked in the pursers safe and came out with my phone.
It had been found in the Southampton terminal and handed in, that means I
misplaced it at the security check-point.
I was extremely pleased to get it back but
quite annoyed that 1) It was five days later and they hadn’t contacted me as
pre-arranged. 2) When I filled out the lost report the day after leaving
Southampton the phone must have already been on board. – Like I said though I’m
pleased to get it back.
18th July – Iceland
Due into Reykjavik at 1300 we woke to a bright
clear day with wind and swell reduced to a pleasant motion.
Even during breakfast (0900) we could see
the outline of mountains in the distance and everyone got excited when we could
see what we thought was an iceberg off to port, well it looked very white in
the sunshine but I’m 99% sure it was a huge rock sitting up out of the sea.
‘Iceland is a land of
volcanoes and glaciers, lava fields and green pastures, boiling
thermal springs and
ice-cold rivers teeming with salmon.
This unspoiled
demi-paradise is also home to a very old and sophisticated culture.
The northernmost capital
in the world, Reykjavik was founded in 874 when Ingolfur Arnarson threw wood
pillars into the sea, vowing to settle where the pillars washed ashore.
Today, Iceland is an international
center of commerce and home to one of the most technologically sophisticated
societies in the world.
Reykjavik is the gateway
to Iceland's natural wonders, which range from ice fields to
thermal pools.
The island is in a
continual process of transformation much like its society, which blends Nordic
tradition with sophisticated technology.’ – travel brochure
Our planned shore coach tour started at
around 1330 included a late lunch at 1730 and we got back to the ship at 2230
still broad daylight.
We drove through the main centre of
Reykjavik a small modern city and out into the country our first stop was at a
reservoir with a difference, it has been built to serve as a tourist attraction,
a spiral stairway takes you up the centre to a large food area inside at the
top with an observation deck outside giving 360 degree views of the city and
surrounding mountains that have patches of snow on them. Surrounding the
outside walls are huge insulated tanks that hold hot water from Iceland’s thermal
areas this is used to heat the houses and buildings around the city hence you
only see chimneys on the very old homes. Water, electricity and heating is very
cheap in Iceland as they are making use of the very accessible geothermal
activity.
Our coach took us through an ever-changing
countryside made up of numerous extinct volcanoes and ancient lava fields, icy
rivers and the ever present steam escaping from some sort of thermal activity.
We stopped at a geothermal power station
also set up as a tourist attraction, watched a video and listened to a lecture
regarding Iceland’s geology its thermal activity and how they tap into it for
power generation and hot water distribution. A lot of research is gone into
before a bore is put down to ensure over production from each hot spot doesn’t
take place.
I remember several years ago visiting a
friend in Rotorua NZ and they told me how every man and his dog had put down a
small bore and were extracting steam or hot water to heat their houses and in
doing so they had reduced the thermal activity in all of the tourist
attractions which of course was a major concern as boiling mud pools became
solidified bogs, bubbling hot water springs stopped bubbling and the mighty geysers
were reduced to poor showings. I don’t know if they have improved since
domestic extraction was controlled.
Adjacent to where we had our late lunch was
a small walk to an active geyser that spurted hot water into the air every 7
minutes.
At another location in the distance we
could see an enormous glacier and in the opposite direction we could see the
volcano that erupted a few years ago and disrupted global air travel for
several days. Nancy’s sister Nola got caught up in that fiasco.
At one point of our tour we walked to an
observation point above a massive spectacular water fall where the icy wind and
drifting spray made warm layers and beanies a Godsend the water obviously
coming from melted snow and the distant glacier.
Later we saw an unusual sight where two
continental plates are separated by a narrow gorge, on one side is the American
Plate and on the other the European Plate the two are only a few metres apart
and the gap is increasing gradually each year. – fascinating.
According to our guide lava flows take about
7,000 years to weather to a point where they sustain what looks like moss and
at least 10,000 years weathering before grass and then eventually scrubby bush
establishes. Most of the country looks very green, obviously there is a high
rain fall and most of the place has weathered enough to at least support moss,
grassy plains and in places the government is experimenting with tree species
to establish forests for timber and soil erosion control.
The cost of living in Iceland is very
high with prices of items in shops over the top compared with any where else.
Farming used to be the mainstay but
appears to be dwindling, tourism is the go and they have geared accordingly.
Farm equipment was all very modern, personal transport had all the normal cars
that you see anywhere else in the world, heaps of 4wd’s with big wheels and
tyres. Being summer and a Saturday there were lots of people camping in tents
and the campers on the back of 4wd’s.
English is their second language and has
to be taught in all the schools.
On the menu in Iceland is whale meat
(pilot whale) and Puffin a sea bird with an unusual beak.
Iceland is a very clean, modern clinical place,
unusual and certainly worth a visit. I wouldn’t want to live there though
especially with the continual threat of volcanic eruption.
We now have four days at sea travelling
south west to Halifax.